Mia Le Journal

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“Nativa” is the selected title of a dream-like, yet accomplished, journey by Greta Boldini in her 2017 Spring/Summer collection. This is a journey that unravels along tumultuous thoughts and dreamy paths that induce the traveller to halt in his steps and to ponder carefully on the nature of what is ready to embrace his soul. He might catch his breath upon reading the prologue by author/poet Dylan Thomas, who tinged his beloved Wales with colours that blush under the red planet Mars, that are drawn out along voluptuous, twisting branches intertwining with an ornate Darryl Cox frame, and that are ultimately reflected upon an aesthetic imagery expressed by a sublime Lynch. The rolling music by Cure picks up the rhythm and transfixes the traveller’s gaze on the poetic imagery of Graham Sutherland and his masterpiece “Western Hills”, which exalts its own colours and delineates to perfection the land so beloved by D. Thomas. This is, therefore, the ideal backdrop to an aesthetic that is unique in its genre, and which encourages a study of Native Americans based not merely on their other-worldly symbology (which undoubtedly represents their popular culture) but also on an intrinsic analysis of the origin of the individual Self. It is this ideal that inspired the “Greta Boldini” brand to select this title. An attentive study of the concept of slips, which here adjoin Over outerwear and low-backed dresses, renders the contours of the silhouette alluring. The collection is once more sartorial, and it seems to glide thanks to its silky texture, which so perfectly compliments the female figure. It is a “fabricated” lightness that is sophisticated all the way up to its finishing touches, including the plissès that accompany fabrics such as cotton jacquards, macramé lace, sating and silk georgettes and organdy, and that give way to panama cottons, cotton tulles and viscose cadies. The Marabou, rooster and guinea feathers adorning the raphia passemanteries and the viscose fringes give rise to the infinitely multi-coloured world of plumage. The flat-creased micro plissés glide around the 3D embroidery envlivened by the mother of pearl paillettes and the glass rods. The ribboned inlay work is as finely geometric as the passemanterie and the feathers, which flatter the elegantly fringed all-overs. The macro floreal stamps are intervalled by sharp black and white geometrics which start off the colour palettes featuring elegant corals: mint greens, absolute whites and olive browns, which are ready to walk the streets of the world with matching blue cobalts and light bordeaus that pave the way for delicate pinks, absolute greys and finally, absolute blacks, bringing this colourful dance to its close. The emotion carried by the sensations stirred by the collection is a “must-have” – perhaps a sensation of surprise at the cultural intensity or at the study of shapes. The collection ends on accessories (that bring it full-circle with their interwoven “cactus” handles), elegant pochettes, glasses, tulle gloves and Voodoo Jewels. This is an equilibrium that rocks the security of those who are not inclined to such beauty, and that also strikes the most skeptical minds. This collection is dedicated to them, without ever losing sight of the importance of a detailed analysis of the clothing culture.

 

styling Federica Trotta, photograpy Martina Scorcucchi & Claudia Bombelli, jewels Voodoo Jewels, sunglasses DOLCEROMA

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